Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Herat, Ancient Beautiful City August 2010


Ancient Queen's Palace, Herat, Afghanistan
We visited Herat during August of this year and I am constantly amazed at the ancient beauty of the buildings, the landscape, the cities and the people. Our arrival was just a few days before the beginning of Ramazan, which allowed for the opportunity to witness the detail and experience of the daily fast and other aspects of this important annual event in Afghanistan and throughout the Muslim world.


Each day our driver, language assistant and people we visited were willing to assist us with our daily tasks in spite of the heat, their fatigue and hunger. We were offered drinks and meals at every stop, as though this was not a problem for them, and the hospitality was everywhere.


We had the opportunity to visit the Citadel in Herat and tour inside the walls and up the steps of the compound, that can only be described as magnificent. Carmen Gutschow, an archaeological and restoration expert from Germany, gave a tour and gave historical context to the many layers of buildings, walls, towers and structures currently under renovation.

The Herat Citadel will be open to the public sometime during the spring of 2011 with art exhibits, lectures and public activities scheduled. Public spaces will also be available for meetings, conferences and other cultural events that will showcase historic artifacts, books, pottery and artwork.





Herat has a number of shops located around the Herat Mosque that are filled with musical instruments, old coins, blue and green glass objects, brass and silver serving pieces, old guns, pistols, buzkashi horse whips, extensive collections of jewelry, headgear and every imaginable ancient Afghan artifact. We enjoyed walking though the shops and would often come upon something not often seen anywhere in the western world. There was one large metal bowl filled with giant rings that had an ancient looking seal on them, the kind one would use to seal an envelope with wax. Now that's something you don't see every day in the west, where many young people don't even write letters.

Connie Frisbee Houde, a professional associate and well known photographer from New York, has been to Afghanistan several times before, and she and I both enjoyed visiting Herat.
Delicious traditional Afghan meal served to guests on the floor.
One of the greatest pleasures of traveling in Afghanistan is having the opportunity to meet with and visit with local Afghans. As we spend time together, occasionally we are invited to their homes and this is probably the very best part of traveling and visiting here.
The traditional Afghan meal which is my favorite is kabuli palau (rice with raisins and carrots), beef or chicken with peppers or vegetables, mantu (ground beef and spices served in a noodle type wrap), sabzi (spinach), okra, salat (fresh cut carrots, cucumber, tomato and cabbage) and nan bread. This meal was served to us at the home of an associate in Herat and I believe his mother is probably the best cook in Afghanistan, everything was made with love and beautifully presented.

We visited the Herat Women's Prison in Herat and the Female Juvenile Detention Center in Herat as well. ChildLight Foundation has worked in collaboration with the prison directorate and established a vocational training program with 5 team leaders within the female inmate population. The 5 areas of emphasis are: Dari literacy, English literacy, computer literacy, knitting projects and Kindergarten teacher. On a recent visit to meet with the female inmates and their children, the CSSP Corrections System Support Program Judicial Advisor for Herat Women's Prison, Michelle Lindo, was there to assist with the distribution of soccer balls made available by Lt. Jasmine Scott, JAG advisor,US Navy, from San Diego, California.

Michelle Lindo, CSSP Advisor Herat
The CSSP Teams work with the local prison commanders at the men's and women's prisons to provide support, mentoring and logistical support with building and construction projects as well as training and teaching of female inmates and staff.

Michelle has worked with the staff and inmates for several years and is loved and respected by the female inmates and especially their children.

The CSSP team will often provide special activities for the children such a pinatas with candy inside, soccer balls or other equipment, toys, furniture and supplies.

There are presently about 120 women and 35 children living in the Herat Women's Prison, and about 50 children over age 7 have recently been moved to a new family shelter nearby to their mothers, where they receive meals, heath care, clothing, daily classroom education and regular visits to their mothers.

Lieutenant Jasmine Scott, JAG Judge Advocate, US Navy

Jasmine Scott arranged for soccer balls to be sent from friends and family in southern California for the children at Herat Women's Prison. The day we visited they were being distributed, much to the delight of the children in the courtyard playground area. Lt. Scott works with CSSP to provide legal advocacy for female inmates and their children.








The knitting group at Herat Women's Prison is composed of a group of about 15 women who enjoy knitting for themselves, for the other female inmates and their children and to provide knitted clothing and items that can also be sent to female inmates at other women's prisons in districts in Afghanistan. ChildLight Foundation has provided yarn and supplies for this project and continues to support the vocational training knitting program.





Variety of knitted clothing made by female inmates.


The kntted items shown at right are examples of the knitted objects that were created recently. Some are being gathered
to sell either in the bazaar or through the US Embassy, so that a portion of the proceeds can be returned to the knitting team. A portion of the proceeds is held in reserve for purchase of future knitting yarn and supplies, and a small portion is returned back to the female inmates.

A large box of knitted items was shipped to ChildLight Foundation in the US and will be offered for sale at the next annual ChildLight Foundation Fundraiser. Proceeds will be returned back to the female inmate knitting team for future knitting projects.